Nawalagwis, commonly known as Magic Beach, sits within San Juan County Park at Smallpox Bay on San Juan Island's west side, approximately 10 miles from Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor. The location earned its "Magic Beach" nickname after serving as a filming site for the 1998 movie "Practical Magic" starring Nicole Kidman and Sandra Bullock, though the area's earlier name "Smallpox Bay" comes from the tragic 1860 incident when American officers burned the bodies of many Coast Salish people who died from smallpox contracted at Victoria. The kale'gamis people, Northern Straits Salish primarily including Lummi, Cowichan, and Songish, built permanent villages and temporary camps throughout the San Juan Islands for thousands of years before European contact. The indigenous name Nawalagwis reflects the Coast Salish heritage of the islands, though specific etymology details remain preserved in oral traditions and specialized sources.
Kayaking launches from the beach into Smallpox Bay's protected waters for paddling exploration along San Juan Island's west shore, with opportunities to encounter harbor seals, observe diverse marine birds, and experience the scenic coastline with Olympic Mountain views across the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Tide pool exploration reveals starfish, anemones, hermit crabs, chitons, sculpins, and other intertidal creatures during low tides when rocky shoreline areas become accessible. Whale watching ranks among the park's premier activities, with Southern Resident Killer Whales appearing from June through mid-October and Transient Killer Whales visible year-round, along with occasional gray whales, minke whales, and Dall's porpoises passing through the strait. The park's 12 acres include gravel beaches, meadow areas with picnic facilities, and short cliffside trails providing elevated views of the water and surrounding landscape. Twenty campsites accommodate overnight visitors with water, flush toilets, small picnic shelter, tables, and boat launch facilities. Picnicking facilities throughout the park create opportunities for waterside meals while watching for marine mammals and seabirds.
Friday Harbor dining offers diverse island options approximately 10 miles from Nawalagwis. Friday's Crabhouse at 65 Front Street North serves fresh cracked Dungeness crab, grilled salmon, steamer clams, mussels, oysters, homemade crabcakes, fish and chips, and fish tacos with harbor views. Downriggers Restaurant at 10 Front Street features Pacific Northwest fare for lunch and dinner with waterfront tables overlooking the harbor. Duck Soup Inn at 50 Duck Soup Lane creates sophisticated Northwest cuisine with applewood-smoked local oysters as a house specialty, seasonal menus featuring fresh Pacific seafood, island produce, and homegrown herbs. Coho Restaurant at 120 Nichols Street prepares island-grown Pacific cuisine with Mediterranean influences from seasonal ingredients sourced from surrounding islands. The Restaurant at Friday Harbor House at 130 West Street emphasizes fresh local island cuisine with panoramic San Juan Channel views, ferry landing, and marina vistas.
